Category: Jean Carles

digging (into) vintage: Dana Canoe

The fougère has been a yardstick of masculine perfumery since Houbigant released Fougère Royale in 1882. It is a slow moving genre that has sauntered from decade to decade with periodic touchups. The principle accord of lavender and coumarin can support a wide range of alterations. With a few compositional tweeks fougères have ranged from mossy or aromatic to oriental…

mythology

Despite a frequently cited lack of common knowledge, perfumery is spring-loaded with all sorts of information, often in the form of misinformation and disinformation. Secrets, gossip, anecdotes, lies. The occasionally verifiable account of an event or discussion. Given the historic secrecy of perfumery it’s no surprise that small talk from one era becomes the mythology of the next. There is…

digging (into) vintage: Carven Ma Griffe, 1946

Perfumer Jean Carles Pursuing vintage perfume has its difficulties.  Date?  Formulation?  Provenance?  Concentration? At the heart of the matter is a question that can be asked of every perfume, whether vintage or current.  It’s a variation on the ‘does one ever swim in the same river twice’ chestnut: does one ever smell the same perfume twice?  Is my new bottle…

digging (into) vintage: Christian Dior Miss Dior, 1947

(image source unknown) Perfumer Jean Carles. I know it’s the thing to kvetch about reformulations.  Reformulation is a negative until proven otherwise.  It happens when materials become unavailable, anathema, or replaced for cost considerations.   It has a recent history of leaving us with perfumes that would be better off discontinued rather than becoming the walking dead. But here’s my…