Category: Jacques Polge

Chanel Coromandel, 2007

  Perfumer Jacques Polges. A house like Chanel has to play a few different angles at once if they want to sell their products.  With Cormandel they tie together a few different narratives that target a number of key demographics simultaneously. It’s an odd dance that Coromandel performs seamlessly.  Coromandel is a Hippy Patchouli and it’s an Old Lady Perfume. …

Chanel Cuir de Russie, 1924 (2007)

(Image lifted from Katerina Plotnikova) Perfumer Ernest Beaux.  1924. Reformulation, Jacques Polge.  2007. Most of what has been written on classical perfumery falls into three categories: the description, the tribute and the complaint, also known as anger passing for nostalgia.   Take Chanel no 5: • The description: Soapy. Bubbly. Old Lady perfume. Flowery.  Feminine.   • The tribute: The…

Chanel Bleu, 2010

Perfumer Jacques Polge It’s not inevitable that a Big Seller will be bad.  It’s not wrong to design a perfume intended to find a large middle of the consumer market.  I don’t have a problem with the notion of Bleu.  Bleu’s strategy is demonstrated in its advertising and by its fresh-citrus-woody genre.  It aims for the wide center of the…

digging (into) vintage: Chanel Antaeus, 1981

Perfumers Jaques Polge, François Demachy. Chanel Antaeus was my first perfume. I don’t remember who gave it to me, but I didn’t choose it myself. Looking back, my touchstones in perfume were Patou Joy, Lanvin Arpège, Dior Eau Sauvage and Paco Rabanne pour Homme. The first two my mother had, and introduced me to classical perfumery. I would sniff them out of the bottle and relish them.  I…

Chanel Egoiste, 1990

Perfumer Jacques Polge A nice woody-fruity fragrance will be at least somewhat attractive to 90% of those who smell it. It is undemanding and hits the right buttons. It’s like a blooming flower. Who actively dislikes jasmine or rose? Egoiste skips pretty, though, and dives straight to drop-dead gorgeous. It is a neo-oriental that beat Serge Lutens Feminite du Bois…