Category: Jacques Guerlain

Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur, 1904

Perfumer Jaques Guerlain Maybe it’s some weird human drive for finding distinction, maybe it’s simply the result of having more perfumes than I could ever imagine wearing in a lifetime, but I find myself focussing on the qualitative differences of some very similar perfumes. Guerlain Habit Rouge eau de toilette and eau de parfum. The same for Guerlain Insolence. Serge…

digging (into) vintage: Guerlain Mitsouko, 1919

(image, Françoise Hardy 2013. Source telestar) Perfumer Jacques Guerlain. Mitsouko’s most charming quality is that it suggests an aging face. Remember back in the day when people aged visibly? Qualities like patience, endurance, maybe even wisdom suggested that there was a reward to having come out the other side of youth and middle-age. Of having gained something. There is something deserving,…

digging (into) vintage: Guerlain Shalimar, 1925

(Sean Panikkar as Shalimar in Shalimar the Clown, based on the Salman Rushdie novel.) Perfumer Jacques Guerlain We all have our classics that are nothing like we remember from back in the day.  (‘I used to wear [insert classic] until they RUINED it!)  I tend to get more wistful than angry over this but just as I’ve sat to write…

digging (into) vintage: Guerlain Vol de Nuit, 1931

(image Anouk Van Kalmthout)   Perfumer Jacques Guerlain I love perfume but sometimes I simply can’t analyze a scent and identify its constituent parts.  This seems to happen in two particular instances. I can’t deconstruct the fragrances that I wore when I was young. Each exists as a whole, like an object. I would have trouble analyzing Chanel’s Antaeus or No…

digging (into) vintage: Guerlain l’Heure Bleue, 1912

(image Anouk Van Kalmthout) Perfumer Jacques Guerlain Describing Vol de Nuit once, I said I can’t analyze or dissect the classic Guerlains.  This holds true for l’Heure Bleue. An anise-like vanilla and orange blossom stand out, but it seems like one of those immensely complex orientals of its era. Beyond my analytical skills. Still, it is my favorite of the classic Guerlains.…