Category: Jacques Cavallier

digging (into) vintage: le Feu d’Issey & Yohji Homme 1998/1999

(images: Peter Hujar self portraits # 3 and #2, 1966.)   Issey Miyake le Feu d’Issey, 1998. Perfumer Jacques Cavallier. Yohji Yamamoto Yohji Homme, 1999.  Perfumer Jean-Michel Duriez. By 1998 niche perfumery was firmly established though still in a formative phase. l’Artisan Parfumeur and Serge Lutens might have been stretching the definitions of perfume but many niche houses valued more…

Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche pour Homme, 2003

(image source unknown) Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Rive Gauche pour Homme is a thick, heavy aromatic fougère.  The aromatic notes are in the cast, but aren’t key players.  They are the Greek chorus to the lavender/coumarin drama at the center of a fougère.  Clove focuses our attention on the coumarin, and rosemary and geranium steer us to the lavender. Because the…

Tom Ford Noir de Noir, 2007

  (image, Lauren Bacall in the Big Sleep) Perfumers Harry Frémont and Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud While this isn’t an ‘oud-in-the-title’ perfume, it rides the oud wave. Categorically, it’s more what used to be called a rose ‘oriental’.  It strains syrup, booze, and flowers throught the sieve of patchouli and amber.  The oud note up top is a distraction and might give an expectation that…

Tom Ford Tuscan Leather, 2007

Perfumers Harry Frémont and Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud Synopsis:  Dry, tobacco/booze leather.  Herbal, smokey, unsweetened.  Grows softer and sweeter in drydown. Only a synopsis because after trying Tuscan Leather and drawing my own conclusions, I took a look to see what others had written about it.  Had I simply reviewed Tuscan Leather before reading what other perfume writers had written I’d have looked like…

Calvin Klein Truth, 2000

Perfumers Jacques Cavallier, Alberto Morillas, Thierry Wasser Time was, names like this from Calvin Klein (Obsession, Eternity and the like) merely seemed pretentious. With the name Truth, Calvin Klein undershoots pretension and lands squarely in the merely stoopid. And, incidentally, in a glaring error in designer perfumes, leaves little room for flankers. Truth Fraiche? Cool Truth? But let’s take Calvin…