Category: Harry Fremont

A FRUITY FLORAL COMPARISON, OR SMALL FISH, BIG POND.

  The fruity floral tends to be a dismal genre.  It’s not intrinsically bad, but producers in the 2000s chased the least common denominators of the hybrid down a well of banality until there were only two controls left on the soundboard, marked ‘sweetness’ and ‘kool-aid’.  Both dials were stripped from sweaty overuse and wound up stuck at volume 11.…

Estée Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia, 2007

Perfumer Harry Frémont The gardenia at the opening of this perfume smells remarkably like the real deal.  In the topnotes, the gardenia and the tuberose circle each other at a short distance, but each remains distinct.  The topnotes, though, have one of the shortest half-lives ever found in perfumery.  Very soon, a blended white floral with a large tannic note…

Tom Ford Noir de Noir, 2007

  (image, Lauren Bacall in the Big Sleep) Perfumers Harry Frémont and Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud While this isn’t an ‘oud-in-the-title’ perfume, it rides the oud wave. Categorically, it’s more what used to be called a rose ‘oriental’.  It strains syrup, booze, and flowers throught the sieve of patchouli and amber.  The oud note up top is a distraction and might give an expectation that…

Tom Ford Tuscan Leather, 2007

Perfumers Harry Frémont and Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud Synopsis:  Dry, tobacco/booze leather.  Herbal, smokey, unsweetened.  Grows softer and sweeter in drydown. Only a synopsis because after trying Tuscan Leather and drawing my own conclusions, I took a look to see what others had written about it.  Had I simply reviewed Tuscan Leather before reading what other perfume writers had written I’d have looked like…