Category: Germaine Cellier

digging(into) vintage: bandit

(Image source unknown) Bandit might have been butch in its day, but that dynamic has changed a lot since 1944. It’s a potent leather with a come-hither lush animalism, the perfect femme-top perfume. I find it easier to read the dynamics of Bandit than many modern dry leathers. It’s calibrated to give the hard and the soft together. When modern…

mythology

Despite a frequently cited lack of common knowledge, perfumery is spring-loaded with all sorts of information, often in the form of misinformation and disinformation. Secrets, gossip, anecdotes, lies. The occasionally verifiable account of an event or discussion. Given the historic secrecy of perfumery it’s no surprise that small talk from one era becomes the mythology of the next. There is…

digging (into) vintage: Balmain Miss Balmain, 1967

(Image, model Helen Williams from 1960s Greyhound Bus advertisement.) Balmain Miss Balmain, 1967.  Perfumer Germaine Cellier Miss B’s charm comes from a slapdash but effective composition.  It conveys an honestly straightforward approach, and the result is a charming perfume with character. Forget any discussions of buttery Italian leather, sophisticated Russian leather, discrete French glove leather.  Miss B is stiff coat…

Robert Piguet Fracas, 1948

Perfumer Germain Cellier. I don’t believe in soliflors. Soliflor perfumes don’t convincingly imitate flowers. The art of perfumery relies on chemistry to deliver an olfactory product. Plants use scents to connect plant and animal in complex symbiotic relationships. In terms of implicit purpose and function, perfumery and flowers have nothing in common. And not to be too dogmatic, but chasing…