Category: Frank Voelkl

le Labo Ylang 49, 2013

  Perfumer Frank Voelkl Le Labo, in their ongoing conflation of ingredient lists and titles, have made a great contribution to the reinvention of the chypre. It’s easy to misunderstand the chypre, focussing on the surface or its list of ingredients (bergamot, oakmoss, labdanum) rather than its complexity and balanced tension. Trying to create a new chypre by replacing banned…

Justin Bieber Girlfriend, 2012

Perfumer Frank Voelkl This perfume actually makes me like Justin Bieber.  Who would have thought this young celeb would choose to balance out the fruity/grapey/berry-like concoction that was given to him with the polluted harbor note of Sécrétions Magnifiques?  Brilliant If SM is brackish spunk and white florals, Girlfriend is that spunk with kool-aid.  The drydown arrives quickly and is…

le Labo Iris 39, 2006

Perfumer Frank Voelkl Where iris root tends toward the powdery in many perfumes, in Iris 39 it’s a cold, tingling, green, papery dust. It comes off as dry but tacky like rosin. Iris 39 focuses on the conciseness of iris. If iris root were a manner of speaking it would read as follows: Declarative statement. (“Declarative statement, pause, full stop”)…