Category: Édouard Fléchier

Aramis Havana, 1994

Perfumer Édouard Fléchier The re-released Gentleman’s Collection by Aramis is like a series of love letters from Estée Lauder to men.  This line is top-notch and a spectacular synopsis of the history of Aramis.  Other men’s fragrance lines should take note and be threatened. Havana is an instance of more being better. The complexity makes for richness without confusion.  Some…

digging (into) vintage: Christian Dior Poison, 1985

Perfumer Édouard Fléchier How naive we were in the 80s!  Poison wasn’t as loud as we thought.   Angel showed us there was still more room on the dial. Poison is a fetching little spicy floral. Certainly not the bulldozer that I only vaguely remember smelling in the 80s. But then again, I recently thought Lutens’s A La Nuit smelled like a mild…

Etro Gomma, 1989

Perfumer Édouard Fléchier Leather perfumes are often defined by the ‘leather plus’ principle. Leather + citrus (Azurée), leather + green (Bandit), leather + tar (Lonestar Memories), Leather + cumin (Rien.) Gomma’s leather is defined by florals and amber. But its plus-one is really rubber. I find that the sweet, powdery, slightly burnt rubber that is prominent from the start lasts…