Category: Edmond Routnitska

The non-flanker: Bruno Fazzolari Au Delà Narcisse des Montagnes

(Sculpture by Marta Klonowska, after Portrait of a Young Young Girl by Charles Dagar) The distinction between a flanker and a variation-on-a-theme might seem trivial at a glance, but it is significant.  They are both versions of existing perfumes, but their intentions and outcomes are quite different.  A flanker is a spin-off of an existing perfume. It is a creature of…

Frédéric Malle le Parfum de Thérèse, 2000

  It’s interesting to see the comparisons between Dior Diorella, Dior Eau Sauvage and Frédéric Malle Parfum de Therèse.  Diorella seems like the logical successor to Eau Sauvage. Riskier, less seemly than Eau Sauvage, it still came from the same principles and intentions of composition.  Parfum de Thérèse seems overall a little further from Eau Sauvage, a bit less similar in composition and…

Mario Valentino Ocean Rain (1990) or, On Diorissimo: Edmond Roudnitska’s Manifesto

 (image source unknown) Ocean Rain is a floral chypre made for the Italian luxury leather shoe and accessories firm Mario Valentino. Released in 1990, it was Roudnitska’s last perfume and it braids together ideas present in his earlier work. It plays with the clean/dirty dichotomy as Rochas Femme and Dior Diorella did, but leans toward the antiseptic. It’s a hybrid style of chypre like Rochas Moustache‘s fougère and Dior Eau Fraiche’s eau de cologne but it…

digging (into) vintage: Rochas Femme, 1943

Perfumer Edmond Roudnitska Rochas Femme would be interesting if only for the fact that it is a great battle-axe of perfumery.  It originated during a time of rations and war, and has survived formulations, trend and fashion, no mean thing. But Femme is interesting for other reasons. It is an early work of the the noted 20th-century perfumer Edmond Roudnitska, and…

Diorellish, or The Perfume Formerly Known as Diorella

(Jane Fonda. Faded Barbarella.) Diorellish (the the current reformulation of Diorella) smells OK. On first impression, it smells a bit like Diorella, the lateral borders being in about the same places,  but the depth isn’t there. This sort of reformulation, which deliberatly avoids nuance is particularly insidious. It tries to convince you that quantity is the concern. If 95% of the formula…

digging (into) vintage: Christian Dior Diorissimo, 1956

Perfumer Edmond Roudnitska I’ve just smelled the recent Diorissimo eau de toilette and I’ve tried to dissect the floral notes used to compose this ostensible lily of the valley soliflor. A green jasmine, a watery hyacinth, an oily, shallow ylang ylang. No spine, no shadow. What I get when I step back from dissecting it smells remarkably like an air freshener.…

Flanker Strategies

 I’ve said it before: as a rule, flankers suck.  It’s not hard to understand how and why they suck.  The goal is sales and the impetus is marketing . When goals are reiteration and demographic targeting, and the risk is straying too far from the known, creativity will be difficult to pin down. How is it then that some succeed? A few…