Category: Bruno Fazzolari

Bruno Fazzolari Feu Secret, 2017

Feu Secret is an exploration of orris, a tricky material to describe in notes. Combined with other components in a composition it has an olfactory range of that lands it squarely in the woody-floral category. Of course orris butter can also make a perfume powdery, metallic, papery, chocolatey or yeasty depending on the angle of approach so to speak. It…

Cadavre Exquis, 2016

Cadavre Exquis is a gourmand perfume from two perfumers known for exploring ‘classy’ genres like animalic chypres and aldehydic florals. It was made following the rules of a surrealist parlor game called exquisite corpse. In an exquisite corpse the participants take turns adding words or images, or in this case accords and materials, until the project is complete. The final…

The non-flanker: Bruno Fazzolari Au Delà Narcisse des Montagnes

(Sculpture by Marta Klonowska, after Portrait of a Young Young Girl by Charles Dagar) The distinction between a flanker and a variation-on-a-theme might seem trivial at a glance, but it is significant.  They are both versions of existing perfumes, but their intentions and outcomes are quite different.  A flanker is a spin-off of an existing perfume. It is a creature of…

Bruno Fazzolari Au Delà and Seyrig

Image Philip-Lorca diCorcia. Perfumer Bruno Fazzolari. It’s a fine point, but Bruno Fazzolari’s perfumes Au Delà (2013) and Seyrig (2015) don’t imitate perfumes from the past.  Instead, they take their genres apart and discover what makes them tick.  Even though Fazzolari refers Seyrig as “inspired by the aldehydic motifs of the late ’60s and early ’70s perfume” it steers clear…

Bruno Fazzolari Room 237, 2015

Image, Gregory Crewdson. Perfumer Bruno Fazzolari Searing woods, rough ouds, tarry incenses. The overtly tough perfumes get most of the attention in the discussion of ‘challenging’ perfumes. Grim, dense, basenote-heavy perfumes are assumed to be threatening.  Within the perfume fraternity they land somewhere between a hazing ritual and a hot-pepper eating contest.  They have an aura of intimidation and tests of…

Bruno Fazzolari Lampblack, 2013

Image from Philip-Lorca diCorcia. Perfumer Bruno Fazzolari. There is nothing new in Lampblack.  Then again newness is overrated in perfumery.  ‘Unconventionality’ is code—camouflage for a lack of nuance and uninventive composition.  Niche perfumery is the boy, novelty is the wolf. Better than novelty, Lampblack has a point of view. Consideration and creativity are more valuable than gimmickry, and let’s call…