Category: Bertrand Duchaufour

l’Artisan Parfumeur Rose Privée, 2015

Stéphanie Bakouche’s sensational Invasion Barbare for Parfums MDCI is a hard act to follow, and it’s worth considering that early-career success is not without its downside. The expectation following a Luca Turin 5-star rating of a first perfume is stratospheric. Rose Privée is Backouche’s second perfume, released a full ten years after Invasion Barbare and co-authored by Bertrand Duchaufour, cited…

Duchaufour’s Duet: l’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu and Dzongkha

Bertrand Duchaufour lead the trend of woody-smoky perfumes in the late 90s and the 00s, particularly with his perfumes for l’Artisan Parfumeur and Comme des Garçons. He became known for the genres that his work redefined: translucent incenses, sheer vetiver, weightless woods.  Seen from the present, the significance of Duchaufour’s work is better understood by looking at his style and…

Neela Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling, 2012

(image Christine and the Queens) Nobody doubts that perfume is both art and business. It’s easy to write off all designer perfume as crap and to assume that artisinal perfumes are necessarily better than the mainstream, but both assumptions oversimplify. Otherwise how do you explain remarkable designer perfumes like le Feu d’Issey, Yohji Homme and Bvlgari Black or bad niche?…

Parfums MDCI Chypre Palatin, 2012

Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour. International Fragrance Association (IFRA) restrictions on materials have made the chypre the bellwether in the reformulation debate.  Limiting the quantity of oakmoss that may be used and the type of bergamot allowed, the IFRA have knocked out two legs of the chypre tripod.  The limitations  have pushed perfumers to reconsider composition and materials-producers to search for novel…

l’Artisan Parfumeur Traversée du Bosphore, 2010

Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour In the wrong hands this perfume might just have been an exercise. How do you take a food known as much for its texture and viscosity and make its scent appear out of thin air? Turkish delight doesn’t have the effusive quality of many other food scents. Think of a piece loukhoum as a planet. The aroma…

Amouage Jubilation XXV (sort of) 2005

(Image of planned Museum of History of Islamic Science by omanobserver.com) Amouage Jubilation XXV, 2005. Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour. Amouage Gold Woman, 1983. Perfumer Guy Robert. The founding concept of Amouage is the hybrid that results from a meeting of cultures. Eastern materials and sensibilities, Western methods and composition. Omani direction, European perfumers. Combining cultures shifts power and transforms identity. It’s…

l’Artisan Parfumeur Vanille Absolument, 2009

Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour When Duchaufour’s work is discussed, you often see words such as translucent, sheer, radiant, weightless.  I only know a small fraction of his work, but I’m interested in the meaning of this weightless quality. Duchaufour separates  scent from other material qualities that our noses identify as weight, viscosity, density. Removing what reads to the nose as mass…

l’Artisan Parfumeur Mon Numéro 8, 2009

Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour I’m still sort of reeling from no 8. I tried it yesterday due to the generosity and perfume-camaraderie of Katie Puckrik, whom I bumped into while perfume shopping. No 8 starts with an iris root so carrot-seedy that the two notes actually seem distinct. They converge slowly and a throaty, rich iris-dominated floral picture comes into focus.…