Category: Antoine Lie

Fragrance Republic, 2014

Fragrance Republic was a perfume line that attempted to create a new model for producing and purchasing perfume. In 2014 nine perfumes by nine perfumers were released simultaneously. Fragrance Republic was a subscription service with different packages and pricepoints as well as the option to buy any perfume individually. The subscription/purchase plan was complicated and statements of art direction that…

Eris Parfums, 2016

(Image Catherine Deneuve and Geneviève Page, Belle de Jour. 1967) Perfumer Antoine Lie. There is a trend to reclaim and reframe traditional perfume styles in a contemporary context. The work has moved the discussion past tinkering with materials in order to create facsimiles (ie. ‘nouveax chypres’ like Narciso Rodriguez for Her, Guerlain Idylle and Miss Dior Chérie.) Mainstream perfumery has…

Tom Ford Café Rose, 2012

Perfumer Antoine Lie. This is the Rose of the twisted Garden?  Antoine Lie, l’enfant terrible, was the perfumer?  Maybe I’ve gotten high on the fumes the smoldering rose chypres of the 70s-80s, but twisted or noir this ain’t. Woody roses are easy in concept.  There is a logical fit and a mutual enhancement.  Because rose provides its own top, middle…

Etat Libre d’Orange Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection, 2009

(Rossy de Palma as Antonio Gaudí from Time Out Barcelona) Perfumers Antoine Lie and Antoine Maisondieu Perfumery is an abstract form. Narrative and storytelling are functions of marketing, not perfumery. But Etat Libre d’Orange presents an alternative to the abstract and the narrative with Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection. Whether you consider the perfume to be a bespoke perfume released to the…

Etat Libre d’Orange Rien, 2006

(image, 1970s Castro District by Crawford Barton) Perfumer Antoine Lie Rien is a leather, yes, but what constitutes a leather note in perfumery is often vague. In describing leather perfumes, we might point to the ingredients of rectified birch tar or isoquinolones, but in general we’re usually just loosely descriptive, often to the point of obscurity. Smokey, tarry, rubbery, ‘like the…