Category: Andy Tauer

Lilies and Valleys

Time hasn’t been kind to lily-of-the-valley perfumes. Stylistically they’ve fallen out of vogue. They are considered quaint and proper, two descriptors nobody with a ‘social presence’ would ever want applied to her. Add to that the conditioned olfactory association with toilet cleanser and it’s no wonder muguet perfumes aren’t trending. Another culprit is the often-overstated limitation on perfume materials, one…

Tauerville Hyacinth and a Mechanic, 2016

Perfumer Andy Tauer The Tauerville line started surreptitiously with a perfume called Rose Flash. It was initially a limited release and wore the familiar “Tauer” label, though the small print contained something new: “Tauerville Collection.” By the time it was released more widely it proudly wore the Tauerville badge on the front of the bottle. Hyacinth and a Mechanic also bears…

Tauerville Vanilla Flash, 2015

The Tauerville line is perfumer Andy Tauer’s attempt to simplify. Not to make simple perfumes, but to streamline the process of conceiving, marketing, distributing and selling perfume. The line is sold through the Tauerville website and from select dealers. Packaging is uncomplicated and handsome and the 30 ml bottles and 10 ml roll-ons are ideal sizes. Each perfume and size…

Tauer Perfumes Carillon pour un Ange, 2010

Image lifted from Loretta Lux. Perfumer Andy Tauer Carillon pour un Ange hits like an olfactory epiphany. It is captivating, ravishing. I can’t stop taking long, slow inspirations of it. The muguet (earthy, oily, creamy, strangely autumnal) is so distinct from the light, pretty lilies of the valley I’ve smelled before. Muguet is the lead-in to the leather, the fresh,…

Richard Lüscher Britos Terroir Perfumes, 2013

Authenticity is perfumery’s Achilles’ heel. Classical perfumery is wounded. The IFRA barbarians are at the gate.  The chypre has left the building, orientals have deflated into gourmands, leather is now ‘notes of suede’ and flowers have lost their bite but gained a sweet-tooth.  Flankers of flankers of perfumes that were originally designed to be flankable in the first place are…

Tauer Perfumes Sotto la Luna–Gardenia, 2014

(image, Bunny Blaze by Florentijn Hofman) Perfumer Andy Tauer There are generally two challenges to making a gardenia perfume. The first is that it requires a complete fabrication since the flower itself yields no aromatic essence. The second is balancing gardenia’s heady and sweet notes with its fleshy, salty, umami underbelly. Another hurdle, though, is matching the specificity of the appearance of…

Decenniel Lys du Désert, 2012

(image source, proximustv.be) Perfumer Andy Tauer I smelled Lys du Désert when it was first released and not long after I first sampled Orange Star.  The similarities seemed apparent. The salty, umami ambergris note in Orange Star radiates from Lys du Désert as well. The two also share a mid-range sweetness, not sugary, not resinous.  Mmmmm… Candied Skin™. The real point…