Category: soapy

Bruno Fazzolari Au Delà and Seyrig

Image Philip-Lorca diCorcia. Perfumer Bruno Fazzolari. It’s a fine point, but Bruno Fazzolari’s perfumes Au Delà (2013) and Seyrig (2015) don’t imitate perfumes from the past.  Instead, they take their genres apart and discover what makes them tick.  Even though Fazzolari refers Seyrig as “inspired by the aldehydic motifs of the late ’60s and early ’70s perfume” it steers clear…

Hermès Cuir d’Ange, 2014

Photo from Philip-Lorca diCorcia. 2014 marks Jean-Claude Ellena’s 10th year as in-house perfumer at Hermès as well as his gradual departure from the house.  Cuir d’Ange is his final perfume for the high-end Hermessence line that he created soon after his arrival to Hermès. While he will continue to remain affiliated with Hermès, he will eventually hand over the reins to Christine…

Parfums Retro Grand Cuir, 2013

(Image lifted from Helmut Newton) Perfumer Hugh Spencer. Parfums Retro Grand Cuir is framed for you before you even try it.  Putting the expectation right out front is an interesting strategy.  The name tells you it will be a backward-looking, stonking leather perfume.  While the name is not an outright fiction, it’s a ruse.  Grand Cuir is a leather perfume,…

digging (into) vintage: Jacomo Anthracite, 1991

Perfumer Mark Buxton Luca Turin has referred to Anthracite pour l’Homme as one of the artful late 80s-early 90s men’s fragrances that that were influential critically, but not commercial successes.  The heart of this set was a group of floral fougères: Caron Troisième Homme (1985), Givenchy Xeryus (1986) and Paco Rabanne Ténéré (1988), YSL Jazz (1988).  They were a new…

Jean Paul Gautier Fleur du Male, 2007

Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian Looking back, Francis Kurkdjian’s Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Male marks the time when Kurkdjian was pivoting his career from work for designer labels and the more rarified niche lines to his own line.  Fleur du Male was released in 2007.  2009 saw the first perfumes from Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Designer, but with a twist, Fleur du…

digging (into) vintage: Weil de Weil, 1971

Perfumer unknown Weil de Weil is a green floral chypre.  In 1971 when it released it might have been called typical.  Unlike today, there was an abundance of green floral & green chypre fragrances.  From the perspective of 2013, this school of green florals having died on the vine, Weil de Weil could be considered quintessential, a classic. Weil de Weil…

digging (into) vintage: K de Krizia, 1980

  Perfumer Maurice Roucel Discovering a chypre from the early 1980s that you’ve never tried is dicey. While it’s new to me, it’s by no means a new perfume, and has lived, loved and likely been reformulated a number of times, probably  fatally. Hand a new fumie a current bottle of Diorella, she’ll sniff and then look at you and…

Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche pour Homme, 2003

(image source unknown) Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Rive Gauche pour Homme is a thick, heavy aromatic fougère.  The aromatic notes are in the cast, but aren’t key players.  They are the Greek chorus to the lavender/coumarin drama at the center of a fougère.  Clove focuses our attention on the coumarin, and rosemary and geranium steer us to the lavender. Because the…

Tom Ford Ombre de Hyacinth, 2012

The Hyacinth of Greek mythology.  (The myth being more interesting than the perfume.) Perfumer Calice Becker The opening credits of some action blockbuster movies cram in everything but the entire film itself.  A cast of stars, flash and bang to get you riled and more exposition than you’ll need.  In fact the exposition is virtually a synopsis of the film, including…