Category: skanky

Summer Fun(k) or Persephone’s props.

  (image by Arlene Gottfried) Fresh, effervescent perfumes offer relief from the heat, a respite from the sultriness of the summer season.  Eaux de Cologne, aquatics, light fruity fragrances, leafy/grassy green perfumes, airy mixed-florals.  These usual suspects accessorize the fleshy displays of the season.  They contribute to the cleanliness/godliness illusion of skin. My skin puts the lie to this fiction. …

digging (into) vintage: Jean Desprèz Bal à Versailles, 1962

Perfumer unknown. Bal a Versailles went right over my head when I first tried it.  It seemed like an old-school, animalic/powdery floriental.  Whether you like that sort of perfume or not, the balance of the elements is crucial.  I thought Bal a Versailles just missed that balance—not enough powder to hide the skank.  But as I eased into it, I got…

digging (into) vintage: Christian Dior Jules, 1980

  (image, Martha–the last passenger pigeon. source, Smithsonian Institution.) Perfumer Jean Martel (perfumer of Paco Rabanne pour Homme!) What does “vintage” mean in perfumery?  It doesn’t have the same meaning as wine, where the noun ‘vintage’ refers to a specific year.  We use ‘vintage’ as an adjective to connote quality and a timeframe.  The time implied is somewhere in the…

digging (into) vintage: Rochas Femme, 1943

Perfumer Edmond Roudnitska Rochas Femme would be interesting if only for the fact that it is a great battle-axe of perfumery.  It originated during a time of rations and war, and has survived formulations, trend and fashion, no mean thing. But Femme is interesting for other reasons. It is an early work of the the noted 20th-century perfumer Edmond Roudnitska, and…

Skanky and Proud

(Since all ‘animalic’ is necessariy neo-animalic without the use of civet, deer musk, etc. I’ll just use the traditional term itself and lean heavily on the wishful-thinking/power-of-suggestion side of the premise of the ‘note’.) Amouage Gold Man   Out and Proud.  Demonstrates both the value of skank and the inability of powder to cover it. Badgley Mischka by Badgley Mischka   Not so much skanky…

Amouage Jubilation XXV (sort of) 2005

(Image of planned Museum of History of Islamic Science by omanobserver.com) Amouage Jubilation XXV, 2005. Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour. Amouage Gold Woman, 1983. Perfumer Guy Robert. The founding concept of Amouage is the hybrid that results from a meeting of cultures. Eastern materials and sensibilities, Western methods and composition. Omani direction, European perfumers. Combining cultures shifts power and transforms identity. It’s…