Category: ‘radiant (cough)’

Duchaufour’s Duet: l’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu and Dzongkha

Bertrand Duchaufour lead the trend of woody-smoky perfumes in the late 90s and the 00s, particularly with his perfumes for l’Artisan Parfumeur and Comme des Garçons. He became known for the genres that his work redefined: translucent incenses, sheer vetiver, weightless woods. Seen from the present, the significance of Duchaufour’s work is better understood by looking at his style and…

Hermès Terre d’Hermès, 2009

  (image, Al Pacino from The Devil’s Advocate) Perfumer JeanClaude Ellena I first tried Terre d’Hermès in the eau de toilette concentration. It is radiant in the contemporary manner, not forceful, but persistent. The eau de toilette’s slightly sour edge gives the impression of two voices singing together, one sharp and one flat. The notes don’t balance each other and…

Comme des Garçons Avignon, 2002

  (image vonwoof) Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour All the talk of the mysterious sense of smell, the visceral sense of smell. The sense of the emotions, therefore with the least association with reason. I really don’t get that. Yes, the sense of smell is discussed incorrectly or at least poorly. We have a striking lack of vocabulary for smell and how…

Bond no 9 New York Patchouli, 2013

Perfumer not cited. With Bond’s vintage subway token  logo and their real-estate-porn-style of naming their products, brand identity is unmistakeable. Bond attempt to balance exclusivity/ubiquity à la Vuitton and their products carry the same dissonance as an LV-logo bag.  They express a desire for exclusivity in a manner that guarantees visibility and readability à la Big Mac. Bond no 9 started as the…

Amouage Honour Man, 2011

  Honour Man, 2011. Perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer Amouage asks you to consider gender with their paired man/woman releases, the Golds, the Jubilations, the Dias, etc..  I don’t know all the Amouages, but I’m always leery of the boy/girl thing.  It seems so rote, so perfunctory, like dressing babies exclusively in blue or pink.  The quality of the perfumes, though, has…

l’Artisan Parfumeur Traversée du Bosphore, 2010

Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour In the wrong hands this perfume might just have been an exercise. How do you take a food known as much for its texture and viscosity and make its scent appear out of thin air? Turkish delight doesn’t have the effusive quality of many other food scents. Think of a piece loukhoum as a planet. The aroma…

Bond no 9 New York Musk, 2012

Perfumer unknown. Wonderful start! New York Musc opens smelling like you would imagine a dry cleaned cactus. Prickly, and dry, giving a tactile impression like the tacky feel of drying varnish. It’s a beautifully constructed synthetic musk; not cuddly, not sweet, but also not like detergent. It feels deliberate and even insubordinate. This isn’t your mama’s musk. It’s got that New…

Serge Lutens Bois et Fruits, 1992

Perfumer Christopher Shledrake The truth of Bois et Fruits, and the other spin-offs of Féminité du Bois as well, is hidden in plain sight in their names.  Bois de/et (insert note). Variation, exploration, overdosage.  The truth of the matter is, they are flankers.  The upside is that they demonstrate that a flanker isn’t necessarily a bad thing. The first thing…