Category: power fragrance

Papillon Artisan Perfumes Salome, 2015

(Image source unknown.) Perfumer Liz Moores. Twenty years ago, with a few exceptions, perfume producers didn’t publicly identify the perfumer. Ten years ago some perfumers were becoming rock stars.  The relationship between the perfumer and the audience is changing and the role of the perfumer is being redefined. Social media has been seen as the marketing tool of the independent perfumer. It’s…

digging (into) vintage: Cacharel Loulou, 1987

(Image Mervyn Gorman autochrome, 1913) Perfumer Jean Guichard. I recently found a vintage bottle of  Cacharel Loulou, a spiced floriental in the vein of Coty l’Origan (1905) and Guerlain l’Heure Bleue (1912).  The three could be seen as variations on a theme, and, though l’Heure Bleue is the most iconic of the three, it wasn’t the first.  It took l’Origan’s style…

stray thoughts on the fougère, part 1 for Kevin

  The New Man of the 1970s, or how Paco Rabanne pour Homme maintained the psychic stability of society. Paco Rabanne, 1973.  Perfumer Jean Martel. However it came about, by the early 70s, masculinity teetered on a tight rope. Men had grown up assuming tht the privileges of their gender were as basic as air or gravity. They were unprepared to…

Lancome Sikkim (La Collection), 2005

Perfumer of 2005 version unknown Sikkim reminds me of the expression, “to fly off the handle.”  Sikkim’s escalation is so quick that it doesn’t even seem like progression, just the flip from something calm to something disturbed. The first sniff sends you reeling.  Sikkim is fast, rough and, I don’t know.  I guess abundant.  It’s everything at once.  It’s a…

digging (into) vintage: Chanel Antaeus, 1981

Perfumers Jaques Polge, François Demachy. Chanel Antaeus was my first perfume. I don’t remember who gave it to me, but I didn’t choose it myself. Looking back, my touchstones in perfume were Patou Joy, Lanvin Arpège, Dior Eau Sauvage and Paco Rabanne pour Homme. The first two my mother had, and introduced me to classical perfumery. I would sniff them out of the bottle and relish them.  I…

Amouage Interlude Man, 2012

(image Robert Longo, Men in the Cities, 1979) Perfumer Pierre Negrin. God knows Amouage have done the ‘go big or go home’ style masculine fragrances before. In fact they are some of the line’s most successful perfumes. Hybrid vigor, Amouage’s implicit goal, has led to beautiful fragrances that highlight traditional Eastern materials and Western compositional methods. The sensibility that results…

The Fougère Project

(This article was originally posted in February and March 2014.  Comments by Christos of Memory of Scent and Bryan Ross of From Pyrgos have been added to this reposting so that the sequence of writing and commentary is maintained.) 2/11/14       At the Center of the Web, The Fougère  Michael Edwards substantially revised his Perfume Wheel in 2011, and the genre whose placement…

digging (into) vintage: Hermès Bel Ami, 1986

Perfumer Jean-Louis Sieuzac In retrospect, Hermès Bel Ami marks the midway point between the dry woods of Chanel Antaeus and the gasoline slap of Dior Fahrenheit. The connection is leather, which both the Chanel and the Dior hint at, but the Hermès wraps itself in.  An intermediate species can by definition only be identified after the fact.  So, here we…