Category: leather

digging(into) vintage: bandit

(Image source unknown) Bandit might have been butch in its day, but that dynamic has changed a lot since 1944. It’s a potent leather with a come-hither lush animalism, the perfect femme-top perfume. I find it easier to read the dynamics of Bandit than many modern dry leathers. It’s calibrated to give the hard and the soft together. When modern…

Parfumerie Générale Arabian Horse 3.1, 2016

Perfumer Pierre Guillaume. The name fits. From the very opening Arabian Horse creates a setting that evokes equestrian affairs. It smells like farms, barns and steeplechases. The topnotes are strong and urgent, but the stables-and-tack mis-en-scène is just exposition and dramatic build-up. The heartnotes are the reveal. The pacing of the perfume reminds me of the actual experience of approaching…

Tauerville Hyacinth and a Mechanic, 2016

  Perfumer Andy Tauer The Tauerville line started surreptitiously with a perfume called Rose Flash. It was initially a limited release and wore the familiar “Tauer” label, though the small print contained something new: “Tauerville Collection.” By the time it was released more widely it proudly wore the Tauerville badge on the front of the bottle. Hyacinth and a Mechanic also…

Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur

(Image, New York Times. 10th St. Russian-Turkish Baths) I wore Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur today. I used to wear it quite a bit, but haven’t lately. The cool, violet-leaf birch tea scent of it always reminded me of rolling in heaps of New England autumn leaves. Dried fallen leaves (maple, oak, sycamore) soaked by rain have a cool aromatic quality…

Parfums Dusita Le Sillage Blanc, 2016

  Pissara Umavijani received a lot of attention in online perfume communities when she launched Parfums Dusita in 2015. Her perfumes go straight for the heart of classic French perfumery. Two of the original three extraits took on traditional genres, the fougère (Issara) and the mixed-white floral (Mélodie de l’Amour). The third (Oudh Infini) renovated the woody floral with a…

Helmut Lang Cuiron, 2014

Perfumer Françoise Caron. I don’t know the original Cuiron, but the consensus is that the new version is very close to the original. Not 100%, but the shape and the intent are the same. Cuiron’s reissue was hotly awaited but following the curse-of-threes in perfume releases it was somewhat overshadowed by its siblings Helmut Lang EDP and EDC. The timing…

LM Parfums Hard Leather

(image Peter Marino by Douglas Friedman) Perfumer not cited at LM Parfums website. The trend toward dense, smoky-woody perfumes is not particularly new. Nasomatto Black Afgano was an early example and many perfumes followed its blueprint closely. The trend has been given new life by the abundance of synth-oud accords. Hard Leather smells like a hopped-up version of the oud…