Category: gourmand

Guerlain Mon Guerlain, 2017

Perfumer Thierry Wasser. So, what is the recipe for a big-budget, got-to-be-successful, no-room-for-error, if-you-build-it-they-will-come perfume? To judge by Guerlain’s approach: Mix equal parts imitation, predictability and risk aversion in a large bowl. Bake in a lukewarm focus-group until stale. Sprinkle with olfactory least common denominators. Serve in a bottle replete with historical Awethenticity™. Buon appetito. Am I cynical? Clearly, but…

Cadavre Exquis, 2016

Cadavre Exquis is a gourmand perfume from two perfumers known for exploring ‘classy’ genres like animalic chypres and aldehydic florals. It was made following the rules of a surrealist parlor game called exquisite corpse. In an exquisite corpse the participants take turns adding words or images, or in this case accords and materials, until the project is complete. The final…

Lolita Lempicka L de Lolita, 2006

(image Valeria Lukyanova, source unknown) Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur is the classic ‘whole lotta everything’ perfume. It’s an Aromatic Fougiental with gourmand tendencies. It doesn’t blend categories. It lumps them all together in the same bottle. Keeping the different genres at arms length from each other is a remarkable technical accomplishment. Unfortunately, it also leaves Musc Ravageur open to love/hate…

Parfumerie Générale Cuir Venenum, 2004

Image source unknown Perfumer Pierre Guillaume. Cuir Venenum takes orange blossom down two parallel courses, neither of which is expected. Track # 1. Similar to iris, underneath orange blossom’s sweetness there is a sweaty quality that gives the flower its dimension and complexity. Cuir Venenum capitalizes on the blossom’s underbelly by steering it in a yeasty, fermented direction, giving Cuir Venenum…

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Couture, 2014

Image Coming of Age by Elena Montemurro.    Perfumer Thierry Wasser. Guerlain have long followed the rule that it’s better to be good than to be first. Or at least it’s better to be the last one standing.  Coty Chypre created the genre that defined perfumery in the 20th century. Mitsouko copied the formula, improved it and is now the standard-bearer. Shalimar…

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur, 2000

(image source unknown) Perfumer Maurice Roucel. Wearing L de Lolita could well be a Catholic-school lesson on the sin of gluttony and the threats of eternal hell. The anticipation draws you close, the titilation makes you give in, the satisfaction is the pleasure you’ve been denied. Then you continue to eat, unable to control yourself, long past the point of nausea…

Lolita Lempicka by Lolita Lempicka, 1997

(image source unknown) Perfumer Annick Ménardo Lolita Lempicka is often identified as one of the post–Angel issue, the first of Angel’s progeny, many of which would follow. Most of those would be defined as cotton candy + something loud, the ‘loud’ usually being a harsh floral note or an enormous but simple fruity note. While this group of followers can…