Category: fruity floral

Guerlain My Insolence, 2007

(image from poster for The Three Faces of Eve) Perfumers Sylvaine Delacourte and Christophe Raynaud Do you remember how much people kvetched about Insolence when it was released? It was The Death of Guerlain. There had been similar raining-cats-and-dogs wailing about a few other post-LVMH Guerlains: Champs Elysées, l’Instant, the entire Aqua Allegoria line. (Guerlain has in fact survived long…

Fruity-floral flankers: Robert Piguet Petit Fracas, 2012

Image source unknown. The range of opinions on the reformulation of classic perfumes usually alternates between a sighing, “It ain’t what it used to be, kid.” and a howling, “They’ve RUINED it!” By all accounts, Guichard is credited with saving the Piguet perfumes by reformulation and maintaining the outstanding quality of the Germaine Cellier icons.  Quite a coup.  So, who…

Fruity-floral flankers: Hermès Rose Amazone (2014)

Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. Rose Amazone shows how well Jean-Claude Ellena’s trademarked transparency/minimalism fits into mainstream taste.  Not a dig, just an observation. It makes sense, too. Many ongoing trends in perfumery stem his more mainstream perfumes: Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert, Cartier Déclaration, Hermès Terre d’Hermès and Kelly Calèche.  He’s one of the most influential  perfumers of his time…

Neela Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling, 2012

(image Christine and the Queens) Nobody doubts that perfume is both art and business. It’s easy to write off all designer perfume as crap and to assume that artisinal perfumes are necessarily better than the mainstream, but both assumptions oversimplify. Otherwise how do you explain remarkable designer perfumes like le Feu d’Issey, Yohji Homme and Bvlgari Black or bad niche?…

Estée Lauder Beyond Paradise Men, 2004

Perfumer Calice Becker High art/low art.  Pop culture/classical art.  My expectations of an episode of Dancing With the Stars, a December Nutcracker and A Merce Cunningham retrospective will be different.  It’s not just art versus entertainment.  It has to do with the intention implicit to the work, the meaning surrounding the creation and performance of the work, the history of…

Creed Acqua Fiorentina, The Encore, 2012 (I shit you not. This is the name of this perfume.)

Perfumer Olivier Creed Hybrid vigor In any hybrid  you’re looking for the best of both worlds. I have an Australian labradoodle, a dog bred for service.  The goal of this particular mix is to combine the intelligence and trainability of the poodle with the human affiliation and low-key temperament of the labrador retriever. The risk of the mix is getting…

Parfums DelRae Amoureuse, 2002

Perfumer Michel Roudnitska I grew up with a specific flaw in my understanding of history. It has to do with over-valuing the present. It’s like a child’s understanding of history and can be described as a misunderstanding of the expression, “There’s no time like the present.”  American exceptionalism leads to a hubris of the moment where the exceptional is always…