Category: fougère

digging (into) vintage: Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel, 1975

Perfumer André Fomentin. Forthright, stark accords have a broad legibility that I find appealing. Fundamental accords keep some degree of some degree of virtuosity even when the notes harmonize. The best potential for synergy is when different elements are connected by a couple of associative links, as in the seemingly Kevin Baconish degrees between bergamot, oakmoss and labdanum in a…

digging (into) vintage: Dana Canoe

The fougère has been a yardstick of masculine perfumery since Houbigant released Fougère Royale in 1882. It is a slow moving genre that has sauntered from decade to decade with periodic touchups. The principle accord of lavender and coumarin can support a wide range of alterations. With a few compositional tweeks fougères have ranged from mossy or aromatic to oriental…

Bond no 9 Chez Bond, 2003

(image LifestyleHunters.com) Perfumer not identified. How does the expression go? First impressions are lasting impressions? Something like that. In 2003 Bond’s launch strategy included a few easy, recognizable perfumes. Perfumes Bond gambled on tapping into a built-in audience appeal. Previously, the niche perfume tactic was to launch with one or two perfumes and build a line over time, but Bond…

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur, 2000

(image source unknown) Perfumer Maurice Roucel. Wearing L de Lolita could well be a Catholic-school lesson on the sin of gluttony and the threats of eternal hell. The anticipation draws you close, the titilation makes you give in, the satisfaction is the pleasure you’ve been denied. Then you continue to eat, unable to control yourself, long past the point of nausea…

Parfums Retro Grand Cuir, 2013

  (Image source unknown) Perfumer Hugh Spencer. Parfums Retro Grand Cuir is framed for you before you even try it. Putting the expectation right out front is an interesting strategy. The name tells you it will be a backward-looking, stonking leather perfume. While the name is not an outright fiction, it’s a ruse. Grand Cuir is a leather perfume, but…

digging (into) vintage: Rochas Globe, 1991

(image source Infrared Atelier’s Infrared Photography Blog) Perfumer: Nicolas Mamounas?  Jean-Claude Ellena? Globe is one of the lost boys from the 90s. Guerlain Heritage (the only one of the bunch still in production), Jacomo Anthracite, Givenchy Insensé, Paco Rabanne Ténéné.  Diverse trends led to the perfumes of the 90s.  The fougères from the 70s, the power frags from the 80s,…

stray thoughts on the fougère, part 1 for Kevin

  However it came about, by the early 70s, masculinity teetered on a tight rope. Men had grown up assuming tht the privileges of their gender were as basic as air or gravity. They were unprepared to find the perks of their gender slipping away and took refuge in the fantasy of the singles bar, the swingers scene, and the leisure…