Category: floral

digging (into) vintage: Guy Robert’s woody florals.

Perfumer and one-time President of La Société Française des Parfumeurs, Guy Robert was known for his rich, layered woody florals. Early in his career, Robert hit on an effective formula of aldehydes, flowers, musks and woods. With this framework he created perfumes that have come to define the terms ‘orchestral’ and ‘symphonic’ in perfumery. Robert’s style of woody floral-aldehydes has…

Parfumerie Générale Arabian Horse 3.1, 2016

Perfumer Pierre Guillaume. The name fits. From the very opening Arabian Horse creates a setting that evokes equestrian affairs. It smells like farms, barns and steeplechases. The topnotes are strong and urgent, but the stables-and-tack mis-en-scène is just exposition and dramatic build-up. The heartnotes are the reveal. The pacing of the perfume reminds me of the actual experience of approaching…

Tauerville Hyacinth and a Mechanic, 2016

Perfumer Andy Tauer The Tauerville line started surreptitiously with a perfume called Rose Flash. It was initially a limited release and wore the familiar “Tauer” label, though the small print contained something new: “Tauerville Collection.” By the time it was released more widely it proudly wore the Tauerville badge on the front of the bottle. Hyacinth and a Mechanic also bears…

Papillon Artisan Perfumes Salome, 2015

(Image source unknown.) Perfumer Liz Moores. Twenty years ago, with a few exceptions, perfume producers didn’t publicly identify the perfumer. Ten years ago some perfumers were becoming rock stars.  The relationship between the perfumer and the audience is changing and the role of the perfumer is being redefined. Social media has been seen as the marketing tool of the independent perfumer. It’s…

Aftelier Perfumes Cuir de Gardenia, 2013

(Image, Eisklotz) I’ve recently had the opportunity to correspond with perfumer Mandy Aftel and she’s agreed to help me learn about the world of natural perfumery by trying her perfumes.  We’ve decided to start the discussion with a single perfume.  I left it to her discretion where to begin and she chose Cuir de Gardenia eau de parfum. ** Traditional floral-leather…

Parfumerie Générale Cuir Venenum, 2004

Image source unknown Perfumer Pierre Guillaume. Cuir Venenum takes orange blossom down two parallel courses, neither of which is expected. Track # 1.  Similar to iris, underneath orange blossom’s sweetness there is a sweaty quality that gives the flower its dimension and complexity.  Cuir Venenum capitalizes on the blossom’s underbelly by steering it in a yeasty, fermented direction, giving Cuir Venenum…

Bruno Fazzolari Au Delà and Seyrig

Image Philip-Lorca diCorcia. Perfumer Bruno Fazzolari. It’s a fine point, but Bruno Fazzolari’s perfumes Au Delà (2013) and Seyrig (2015) don’t imitate perfumes from the past.  Instead, they take their genres apart and discover what makes them tick.  Even though Fazzolari refers Seyrig as “inspired by the aldehydic motifs of the late ’60s and early ’70s perfume” it steers clear…

digging (into) vintage: Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs, 1978

Photo, Susan Meiselas.  Hanging out on Baxter Street, 1978.  From The Prince Street Girls | New York (1976-2011) Perfumers Roger Pellegrino, Robert Gonnon, Paul Leger and Raymond Chaillon Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs is an unsurpassed example of top-down design in corporate perfumery.  Employing marketing strategies intended to launch products into the advertising pantheon of ‘Household Name’ commodities such as Coca-Cola and…