Category: cologne

Institut Très Bien Colognes Fines: Rose de Mai, Violette de Parme, Tuberose Absolue

Perfumers not cited by Institut Très Bien. Institut Très Bien is dedicated to the Eau de Cologne. In 2005 the brand launched three fragrances by perfumer Pierre Bourdon, each a spin classic cologne: Cologne à la Française, Cologne à l’Italienne, Cologe à la Russe. They were not revolutionary and they weren’t intended to be. They were, however, excellent. Multiple releases…

Bogue Cologne Reloaded, 2013

Image Joel Peter Witkin Cologne Reloaded is made with perfume materials from the 1940s that found their way into the hands of perfumer and architect Antonio Gardoni.  It is derived from a concentrated eau de cologne base called “Colonia della Esperis”.  The base included instructions for reconstitution to various concentrations, each of which Gardoni prepared in his investigation of the…

Bruno Fazzolari Room 237, 2015

Image, Gregory Crewdson. Perfumer Bruno Fazzolari Searing woods, rough ouds, tarry incenses. The overtly tough perfumes get most of the attention in the discussion of ‘challenging’ perfumes. Grim, dense, basenote-heavy perfumes are assumed to be threatening.  Within the perfume fraternity they land somewhere between a hazing ritual and a hot-pepper eating contest.  They have an aura of intimidation and tests of…

Hermès Eaux de Cologne

(Image lifted from Loretta Lux.) Jean-Claude Ellena’s work for Hermès is sorted into lines.  They are as much clusters of flankers as sub-brands. They provide as many doors into the world of Hermès as possible and serve to inculcate the buyer to the taste and values of Hermès’s style of luxury.  Sophisticated?  Cynical?  Both, really. I avoid writing about perfume…

Atelier Cologne Rose Anonyme, 2012

  (image, anonymous) Atelier Cologne Rose Anonyme, 2012.  Perfumer Jérome Epinette. The proposition of crossing the bright effusive tenor-like quality of an Eau de Cologne (the genre, not the dilution) with the concentration of an eau de parfum is a wonderful idea, but is not particularly new. Previous attempts have tried to make the classical edc notes (citrus, herbs, etc.) last…

Bond no 9 Little Italy, 2004

Perfumer Francis Camail topnotes: orange mid-notes: none basenotes: none I like eau de cologne that starts enthusiastic and demonstrative and then simmers down to a different emotional range. Content, calm, grounded. Cologne is more a jump-start than a marathon. People who wear cologne, especially just out of the shower or on getting dressed to face the world, want a pick-me-up,…

Maison Francis Kurkdijan Cologne pour le Soir, 2009

(image, Le Male Frida Kahlo by Debora Pota) Perfumer Francis Kurkdijan Traditional Eaux de Cologne are designed to take advantage of the volitile qualities of citrus materials. The basic structure of composition is concise and most Colognes smell alike. Cologne is associated with its characteristic smells: hesperidic notes (citrus fruit, leaves, woods) herbs, florals, musk. Kurkdijan reinvents the Cologne by throwing…

Parfums de Nicolai Vetyver (date of release unknown)

Perfumer Patricia de Nicolai More of a woody citrus than a classic vetiver, de Nicolai’s Vetyver is a refreshing and lovely scent that finds itself miles from the classic heavy, musty, masculine vetiver perfume. The vetiver shows itself with a slightly iodine, salty note that makes the citrus seem preserved. I wear it the way an eau de cologne is intended…