Category: aquatic

Bond no 9 Chez Bond, 2003

(Perfumer not identified.)  How does the expression go?  First impressions are lasting impressions?  Something like that. In 2003 Bond’s launch strategy included a few easy, recognizable perfumes.  Perfumes Bond gambled on tapping into a built-in audience appeal.  Previously, the niche perfume tactic was to launch with one or two perfumes and build a line over time, but Bond were one…

Estée Lauder Beyond Paradise Men, 2004

Perfumer Calice Becker High art/low art.  Pop culture/classical art.  My expectations of an episode of Dancing With the Stars, a December Nutcracker and A Merce Cunningham retrospective will be different.  It’s not just art versus entertainment.  It has to do with the intention implicit to the work, the meaning surrounding the creation and performance of the work, the history of…

le Labo Calone 17

I don’t use room sprays, so when I smell them they feel a bit like ham-fisted perfumes. Calone 17 is a floral-aquatic scent that screams “flower & water!” at you.  Imagine Annick Goutal’s un Matin d’Orage at volume 20.  In a perfume, indolic notes and such provide the backdrop for the sweetness and light.  I suspect that in a room…

Bond no 9 Coney Island, 2007

Perfumer Michel Almairac You can recognize a classic Guerlain when you come across it.  Same goes for Caron, Estée Lauder, Montale, Amouage. It might be a similarity of style, it might be recognizeable notes.  It’s a sort of calling card. Recognition is the first step in branding, and most up-and-coming houses seek brand identifiability. Christ, did Bond no. 9 choose the…

Gender, Pack and the Aquatic Fragrance

I find the discussion of gender and perfume fascinating but frustrating.  However well-considered an understanding or a finding might be, it’s hard to consider in terms of evidence.  Gender is as basic as language, but where is it?  Where do you find gender?  Fragrance is easy to ‘place’, but how do you discuss it?  What does it mean? It’s possible to make truthful…

Creed Erolfa, 1992

Perfumer Olivier Creed I’ve tried many of the fragrances in the Creed line.  Scorecard:  Really like Irisia (bought it.)  Had to try Love in White after having read Luca Turin’s review.  Virgin Island Water, Love in Black, Fleurissimo, Original Santal.  A fairly random sampling. But there are three that are of a piece.  Original Vetiver, Himalaya and now Erolfa.   They’re quite similar in overall shape…