Category: aldehydic

digging (into) vintage: Guy Robert’s woody florals.

Perfumer and one-time President of La Société Française des Parfumeurs, Guy Robert was known for his rich, layered woody florals. Early in his career, Robert hit on an effective formula of aldehydes, flowers, musks and woods. With this framework he created perfumes that have come to define the terms ‘orchestral’ and ‘symphonic’ in perfumery. Robert’s style of woody floral-aldehydes has…

Bruno Fazzolari Au Delà and Seyrig

Image Philip-Lorca diCorcia. Perfumer Bruno Fazzolari. It’s a fine point, but Bruno Fazzolari’s perfumes Au Delà (2013) and Seyrig (2015) don’t imitate perfumes from the past. Instead, they take their genres apart and discover what makes them tick. Even though Fazzolari refers Seyrig as “inspired by the aldehydic motifs of the late ’60s and early ’70s perfume” it steers clear…

digging (into) vintage: Madame Rochas and Hermès Calèche

(photo Cecil Beaton for Vogue 1948. Charles James Gowns) At the start of the 1960s Guy Robert released two aldehydic floral chypre perfumes—Madame Rochas in 1960 and Hermès Calèche in 1961. The two perfumes have similarities but a back-to-back comparison reveals the differences that make the two perfumes diverge steadily over time. Though young, Robert quickly came to be one…

digging (into) vintage: Inès de la Fressange, 1999

(image, Inès de la Fressange and family by Paolo Roversi) This fragrance might seem a bit of an oddball. It stands yards apart from the gooey, syrupy gourmands and fruity florals of its year (1999.) It also keeps its distance from the tradition of Beautiful Florals. (Note: Composed by Calice Becker and released same year that she made the block-buster…

Etat Libre d’Orange Vraie Blonde, 2006

(image Amanda Lepore by Terry Richardson) Perfumer Antoine Maisondieu. Etat Libre d’Orange’s schtick is easy to dispense with because it’s so ridiculous.  I love the perfume that ELDO make, and I support the notion that perfumery needs to be shaken up.  The grade-school boyishness, though, is self-defeating.  The first thing I do with a bottle from ELDO is to put…

digging (into) vintage: K de Krizia, 1980

  Perfumer Maurice Roucel Discovering a chypre from the early 1980s that you’ve never tried is dicey. While it’s new to me, it’s by no means a new perfume, and has lived, loved and likely been reformulated a number of times, probably  fatally. Hand a new fumie a current bottle of Diorella, she’ll sniff and then look at you and…