Category: Yves Saint Laurent (YSL)

digging (into) vintage: Yves Saint Laurent Yvresse, 1993

  (image Kitchen Art 1 by Hay Hermans) Originally named Champagne.  Perfumer Sophia Grojsman. More like Sauternes than Champagne, but I don’t want to start another trademark issue for this fragrance.  Yes, this has similarities to wine, but it seems much more like a sweet dessert wine than anything else.  And, yes, there is a chypre base to Yvresse, but…

Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche pour Homme, 2003

(image source unknown) Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Rive Gauche pour Homme is a thick, heavy aromatic fougère.  The aromatic notes are in the cast, but aren’t key players.  They are the Greek chorus to the lavender/coumarin drama at the center of a fougère.  Clove focuses our attention on the coumarin, and rosemary and geranium steer us to the lavender. Because the…

digging (into) vintage: Yves Saint Laurent Paris, 1983

(image source unknown) Perfumer Sophia Grojsman Paris is one of the few perfumes that is 80’s in style, size and exuberance but can still be worn today without irony. It’s a cartoon-like rose with candied violet. A bit shrieky up top, but fortunately by the heartnotes the rose grows citric and astringent, lending a sweet/tart quality to the accord. Paris…

digging (into) vintage: Yves Saint Laurent Jazz, 1988

(image Billy Strayhorn) Perfumer Jean-François Latty Jazz is a great illustration of the point that the aromatic fougère of the 70s-80s had reached before Cool Water changed the rules.  It has a warm spiced opening that plays against the longer-lasting notes that define the heart and a classic fougère base. Jazz has a major/minor chord interaction that maintains my interest as…

digging (into) vintage: Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, 1971

Perfumer Michael Hy I came to Rive Gauche a bit late in the game in the early 1990s, smelling it on a friend who had a perfect balance of chic and practicality. She had a discerning, unpretentious knack for picking from high and low style. She wore Rive Gauche and it fit her perfectly. Recently I wrote that I preferred…

digging (into) vintage: Yves Saint Laurent Kouros, 1981

Perfumer Pierre Bourdon I’ve worn Kouros on and (mostly) off since its release. I’ve never found it skanky or off-putting in the least. Categorically, I find it a musky, spicy-floral fougère. I’ll admit the musks give it a bit of a mammalian undertone, but the clove, botany’s super antimicrobial, more than holds the unwashed at bay. I tend to find…