Category: Tauer Perfumes

Lilies and Valleys

Time hasn’t been kind to lily-of-the-valley perfumes. Stylistically they’ve fallen out of vogue. They are considered quaint and proper, two descriptors nobody with a ‘social presence’ would ever want applied to her. Add to that the conditioned olfactory association with toilet cleanser and it’s no wonder muguet perfumes aren’t trending. Another culprit is the often-overstated limitation on perfume materials, one…

Tauer Perfumes Carillon pour un Ange, 2010

Image lifted from Loretta Lux. Perfumer Andy Tauer Carillon pour un Ange hits like an olfactory epiphany. It is captivating, ravishing. I can’t stop taking long, slow inspirations of it. The muguet (earthy, oily, creamy, strangely autumnal) is so distinct from the light, pretty lilies of the valley I’ve smelled before. Muguet is the lead-in to the leather, the fresh,…

Tauer Perfumes Sotto la Luna–Gardenia, 2014

(image, Bunny Blaze by Florentijn Hofman) Perfumer Andy Tauer There are generally two challenges to making a gardenia perfume. The first is that it requires a complete fabrication since the flower itself yields no aromatic essence. The second is balancing gardenia’s heady and sweet notes with its fleshy, salty, umami underbelly. Another hurdle, though, is matching the specificity of the appearance of…

Lonestar Memories, 2006

(image, Mongomery Clift on the set of The Misfits) Perfume Andy Tauer I’ve seen Lonestar Memories compared to l’Air du Désert Marocain, and while they both play with smoke, Lonestar is far less comfortable.  The smoke isn’t some lovely material burned for its fragrance, it’s the residue of a fire. Lonestar is categorized as a leather fragrance, but it lives beyond…

Tauer Perfumes Incense Rosé, 2008

Perfumer Andy Tauer Incense Rosé reminds me of Jean Guichard’s Loulou for Cacharel. They smell nothing alike, really, but they’re both fireworks-style floral orientals—expansive, bubbly, heady and very easy to enjoy. Incense Rosé isn’t hard to like, but its ease is not a fault. It’s a sparkly, raspy blend of rose and spice in a resinous incense/amber base. Like Loulou,…