Category: Rochas

digging (into) vintage: Guy Robert’s woody florals.

Perfumer and one-time President of La Société Française des Parfumeurs, Guy Robert was known for his rich, layered woody florals. Early in his career, Robert hit on an effective formula of aldehydes, flowers, musks and woods. With this framework he created perfumes that have come to define the terms ‘orchestral’ and ‘symphonic’ in perfumery. Robert’s style of woody floral-aldehydes has…

digging (into) vintage: Madame Rochas and Hermès Calèche

(photo Cecil Beaton for Vogue 1948. Charles James Gowns) At the start of the 1960s Guy Robert released two aldehydic floral chypre perfumes—Madame Rochas in 1960 and Hermès Calèche in 1961. The two perfumes have similarities but a back-to-back comparison reveals the differences that make the two perfumes diverge steadily over time. Though young, Robert quickly came to be one…

digging (into) vintage: Rochas Globe, 1991

(image source Infrared Atelier’s Infrared Photography Blog) Perfumer: Nicolas Mamounas?  Jean-Claude Ellena? Globe is one of the lost boys from the 90s. Guerlain Heritage (the only one of the bunch still in production), Jacomo Anthracite, Givenchy Insensé, Paco Rabanne Ténéné.  Diverse trends led to the perfumes of the 90s.  The fougères from the 70s, the power frags from the 80s,…

digging (into) vintage: Rochas Femme, 1943

Perfumer Edmond Roudnitska Rochas Femme would be interesting if only for the fact that it is a great battle-axe of perfumery.  It originated during a time of rations and war, and has survived formulations, trend and fashion, no mean thing. But Femme is interesting for other reasons. It is an early work of the the noted 20th-century perfumer Edmond Roudnitska, and…

digging (into) vintage: Rochas Moustache, 1948

Perfumers Thérèse and Edmond Roudnitska I imagine that over the past 60-odd years Moustache has seen a number of formulations. I’ve seen it called a fougère, a chypre, an eau de cologne. I have the eau de toilette concentrée version bought in the 2000s but likely dating from the 1990s. I’ve smelled an older eau de cologne and they are…