Category: Paco Rabanne

digging (into) vintage: Paco Rabanne Calandre, 1969

  (image, 1969 Rolls-Royce) Perfumer Michael Hy I get the comparison between YSL Rive Gauche and Calandre, and I love to put one on each wrist just for kicks. It’s fun to watch them both unroll over time. Contrary to general consensus, I find Calandre both ligher in weight and darker in feel that Rive Gauche. Yes, Rive Gauche’s rose…

digging (into) vintage: Paco Rabanne La Nuit, 1985

Perfumer Jean Guichard To read other people’s impressions of La Nuit, it is a nostalgic scent of the 1970s and 80s. It may have been released in 1985, but it stands with the pillars of the big leathery chypres of the late 60s-70s: Aromatics Elixir, Scherrer de Scherrer, Azurée, Sikkim, Miss Balmain. La Nuit’s spin on the animalic leather chypre…

digging (into) vintage: Paco Rabanne Ténéré, 1988

Perfumer Pierre Wargnye I guess it’s virtually a truism that a masculine floral will bomb. Sad. Ténéré had so many things going for it, too. A bright opening that gets darker as time passes; a raspy lavender that gives it a barbershop quality; a honey/urinous note that makes if feel lived in. Ténéré is a floral fougère in the YSL Kouros mold,…

digging (into) vintage: Paco Rabanne Metal, 1979

Perfumer Robert Gonnon For all the specific floral notes I can make out in Metal (lily of the valley, hyacinth, narcissus?) it doesn’t read as floral. Even with the connections to other green florals (Guerlain Chamade, de Nicolai le Temps d’une Fete) and aldehydic florals (its sibling Paco Rabanne Calandre), Metal stands in its own category. The only other scents truly akin to it…