Category: Naomi Goodsir

iris

(image, klick.com) Papillon Artisan Perfumes Angélique. Perfumer Liz Moores, 2013 Naomi Goodsir Iris Cendré. Perfume Julien Rasquinet, 2015 Masque Milano l’Attesa. Perfumer Luca Maffei, 2016 Iris was a key part of the grand ‘orchestral’ perfumes that are now considered dated if not antiquated. Old-school Guerlains like Mitsouko and l’Heure Bleue nested orris root and iris aromachemicals in complex structures. Modern…

Naomi Goodsir Cuir Velours, 2012

Perfumer Julien Rasquinet Cuir Velours suffers from the same malady as its sibling, Bois d’Ascèse.  The problem isn’t the fragrance, it’s the strategy. So let’s get the perfume out of the way.  It’s a waxy, fruity leather.  Less soapy than Serge Lutens Daim Blond, more spiced than Robert Piguet’s revived Visa.  A pretty fruit/leather that smokes and drinks.  Very nice,…

Naomi Goodsir Bois d’Ascèse, 2012

(image Erykah Badu in Naomi Goodsir hat) Perfumer Julien Rasquinet. Bois d’Ascese is a good, solid fragrance.  It’s handsome.  It smells like frankincense.  I love frankincense.  Most people do. There’s the hazard. Bois d’Ascese falls prey to the Amber Trap.  Take a ‘ready-made’ botanical such as frankincense or labdanum (or rose, or vetiver…).  Then build a fragrance around the central…