Category: Gucci

digging (into) vintage: Guy Robert’s woody florals.

Perfumer and one-time President of La Société Française des Parfumeurs, Guy Robert was known for his rich, layered woody florals. Early in his career, Robert hit on an effective formula of aldehydes, flowers, musks and woods. With this framework he created perfumes that have come to define the terms ‘orchestral’ and ‘symphonic’ in perfumery. Robert’s style of woody floral-aldehydes has…

Lilies and Valleys

Time hasn’t been kind to lily-of-the-valley perfumes. Stylistically they’ve fallen out of vogue. They are considered quaint and proper, two descriptors nobody with a ‘social presence’ would ever want applied to her. Add to that the conditioned olfactory association with toilet cleanser and it’s no wonder muguet perfumes aren’t trending. Another culprit is the often-overstated limitation on perfume materials, one…

digging (into) vintage: Gucci Envy for Men, 1998

Perfumer Daniela Andrier I’ve dogged Tom Ford’s perfumes. I’m not a great fan of his eponymous perfume line, but on smelling Gucci Envy for Men, something clicked. The Gucci perfumes of the Ford era were a first rate line of designer perfumes and are a testament to the value of art direction. Gucci Rush (Michel Almairac, 1999) is a pitch-perfect…

Gucci Rush, 1999

Gucci Rush, 1999.  Perfumer Michel Almairac. There’s nothing I can add to the comments I’ve read about how this smells.  Hairspray, lactones, patchouli, non-existent flowers, bubblegum, poppers.  All true. It’s the feeling, though. There’s not even an attempt to tether this thing to anything actually botanical.  Natural and chemical are words I tend not to use, because what do they…

Gucci Rush, 1999

Perfumer Michel Almairac There’s nothing I can add to the comments I’ve read about how this smells.  Hairspray, lactones, patchouli, non-existent flowers, bubblegum, poppers.  All true. It’s the feeling, though. There’s not even an attempt to tether this fragrance to anything actually botanical.  Natural and chemical are words I tend not to use, because what do they mean?  Nature, as…

digging (into) vintage: Gucci Envy, 1997

  Perfumer Maurice Roucel Green florals succeed in different ways. No. 19 is a sharp green floral, Paco Rabanne Metal is a flinty green floral, Aliage is a cool green floral. Envy is a sour green floral. Though bitterness works wonderfully in perfume, hence all the great leathers and chypres, sourness is another story entirely. As with coffee, bitter is ideal, sour is a shame.…