Category: Etro

Etro Palais Jamais, 1989

Perfumer unknown Palais Jamais should be a mess. Citrus, floral, smoky, herbal, vetiver. Was that rubber? Was it supposed to be leather? Palais Jamais somehow keeps its parts distinct and well behaved. From top to base, Palais Jamais maintains an ungainly balance. The elements don’t come together—that would be the mess—they just follow their courses. The lighter elements recede, the…

Etro Vetiver, 1989

Perfumer unknown Etro Vetiver has a wonderfully burnt yet wet quality that makes this seem not so much like a fragrance to be worn in autumn, but a fragrance that smells of autumn. It smells like dried, fallen tree leaves that have been rained on, plus burnt cedar logs doused by the same rain. Etro’s Vetiver has a very strong…

Etro Gomma, 1989

Perfumer Édouard Fléchier Leather perfumes are often defined by the ‘leather plus’ principle. Leather + citrus (Azurée), leather + green (Bandit), leather + tar (Lonestar Memories), Leather + cumin (Rien.) Gomma’s leather is defined by florals and amber. But its plus-one is really rubber. I find that the sweet, powdery, slightly burnt rubber that is prominent from the start lasts…