Category: Christian Dior

digging (into) vintage: Guy Robert’s woody florals.

Perfumer and one-time President of La Société Française des Parfumeurs, Guy Robert was known for his rich, layered woody florals. Early in his career, Robert hit on an effective formula of aldehydes, flowers, musks and woods. With this framework he created perfumes that have come to define the terms ‘orchestral’ and ‘symphonic’ in perfumery. Robert’s style of woody floral-aldehydes has…

digging (into) vintage: Christian Dior Dioressence 1969/1979

(What a difference a decade makes. Uncredited photos of Washington, DC from 1969 and 1979.) 2013–I’ve seen some discussions online about the merits and pathologies of vintage perfume collecting. I’m live-and-let-live on this one. If it feels good, do it. But how far will you go for vintage? Me, not far. Of course my consolation prize is all of contemporary perfumery, so…

Christian Dior I Love Dior, 2002

(Image: Freedom Fries, Bottomless. Alexander Kargaltsev.) Perfumer not cited by Dior. I Love Dior is my latest $12 Ebay purchase.  I haven’t received it yet, but the bottle, the name, the zeitgeist give me more than enough to start writing. In 2003, French Fries became “Freedom Fries” when a US member of Congress proposed excising France from the American consciousness…

digging (into) vintage: Christian Dior Jules, 1980

  (image, Martha–the last passenger pigeon. source, Smithsonian Institution.) Perfumer Jean Martel (perfumer of Paco Rabanne pour Homme!) What does “vintage” mean in perfumery?  It doesn’t have the same meaning as wine, where the noun ‘vintage’ refers to a specific year.  We use ‘vintage’ as an adjective to connote quality and a timeframe.  The time implied is somewhere in the…

Diorellish, or The Perfume Formerly Known as Diorella

(Jane Fonda. Faded Barbarella.) Diorellish (the the current reformulation of Diorella) smells OK. On first impression, it smells a bit like Diorella, the lateral borders being in about the same places,  but the depth isn’t there. This sort of reformulation, which deliberatly avoids nuance is particularly insidious. It tries to convince you that quantity is the concern. If 95% of the formula…

digging (into) vintage: Christian Dior Diorissimo, 1956

Perfumer Edmond Roudnitska I’ve just smelled the recent Diorissimo eau de toilette and I’ve tried to dissect the floral notes used to compose this ostensible lily of the valley soliflor. A green jasmine, a watery hyacinth, an oily, shallow ylang ylang. No spine, no shadow. What I get when I step back from dissecting it smells remarkably like an air freshener.…