Category: Caron

digging (into) vintage: Caron Bellodgia, 1927

Perfumer Ernest Daltroff When a classic perfume falls from grace reformulation is typically the first target of rage. The story of how chypres and fougères were vandalized by IFRA has been repeated so often it’s become a moral fable. Replace IFRA and the consumer with the tortoise and the hare or the grasshopper and the ass and you have a…

digging (into) vintage: Caron Le Troisième Homme, 1985

Perfumer Richard Fraysse Troisième Homme bends the classic aromatic fougère a bit. Still floral, still bitter. But unlike the model fougère, the bitterness isn’t diminished by a lavender-herbal rinse. There’s an angular, burnt note that darkens the composition. It smells like creosote bush in southern California desert in summer. The bitterness adds focus, and it’s a remarkable trick. It reads as dark but breezy, blending prettiness with melancholy. However it was composed, 3ème…