Category: Aramis

Bernard Chant and the Cabochard Family Tree

Images lifted from Thomas Allen. The start:  Grès Cabochard, 1959. Expectation works against Grès Cabochard, poor dear.  Many compare it in its current form to a vintage model.  I’ve never smelled vintage Cabochard, so that expectation isn’t an issue. Cabochard is the reference leather chypre of the mid-20th century.  It was popular, critically acclaimed and directly influenced the decades of…

Aramis Calligraphy Rose, 2013

  Perfumer Trudi Loren The rose is often maligned among fumies. It’s quaint, it’s prosaic, it’s the low hanging fruit of floral perfumes.  It’s lovely on the bush but uninteresting in the bottle. Perhaps the rose’s greatest sin among the cognicsienti: it’s common. I see it differently.  The rose’s ability to play the common denominator makes it the ultimate contextual note.…

Aramis Havana, 1994

Perfumer Édouard Fléchier The re-released Gentleman’s Collection by Aramis is like a series of love letters from Estée Lauder to men.  This line is top-notch and a spectacular synopsis of the history of Aramis.  Other men’s fragrance lines should take note and be threatened. Havana is an instance of more being better. The complexity makes for richness without confusion.  Some…

digging (into) vintage: Aramis Devin, 1977

(Photo by Cathy Merenda) Perfumer Bernard Chant. Devin fits perfectly into the Lauder school of boy/girl pairings.  The girl side of the pairing, whether it was the original fragrance or the sequel, is the greater of the two.  Larger (Aromatics Elixir compared to Aramis 900), heavier (Cinnabar to Aramis JHL), or more forceful (Aliage to Devin.)  The Aramis by Aramis/Estée Lauder pairing is the exception…

digging (into) vintage: Aramis 900, 1973

(image source unknown) Aramis 900 (1973.  Perfumer Bernard Chant)  and Clinique Aromatics Elixir (also Chant)are very similar.  In classic Estée Lauder fashion, there are effectively masculine and feminine versions of one fragrance, as is also the case with JHL/Cinnabar, Devin/Aliage, Aramis/Azurée. The funny thing is, by conventional perfume standards Lauder has mistaken the gender-targets for A900 and Aromatics Elixir.  While both are floral/herbal chypres, Aromatics Elixir is…