Category: Amouage

digging (into) vintage: Guy Robert’s woody florals.

Perfumer and one-time President of La Société Française des Parfumeurs, Guy Robert was known for his rich, layered woody florals. Early in his career, Robert hit on an effective formula of aldehydes, flowers, musks and woods. With this framework he created perfumes that have come to define the terms ‘orchestral’ and ‘symphonic’ in perfumery. Robert’s style of woody floral-aldehydes has…

Amouage Lyric Woman, 2008

Amouage Lyric Woman, 2008.  Perfumer Daniel Maurel. Rose is a flower in the same way that sandalwood is a wood, and vanilla is a spice.  Each is so definitive of its category, that it supersedes the classification.  With this star quality rose tends to be difficult to hide.  The only reason this predicament isn’t a problem is that nobody wants to hide the…

Amouage Interlude Man, 2012

(image Robert Longo, Men in the Cities, 1979) Perfumer Pierre Negrin. God knows Amouage have done the ‘go big or go home’ style masculine fragrances before. In fact they are some of the line’s most successful perfumes. Hybrid vigor, Amouage’s implicit goal, has led to beautiful fragrances that highlight traditional Eastern materials and Western compositional methods. The sensibility that results…

Amouage Honour Man, 2011

  Honour Man, 2011. Perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer Amouage asks you to consider gender with their paired man/woman releases, the Golds, the Jubilations, the Dias, etc..  I don’t know all the Amouages, but I’m always leery of the boy/girl thing.  It seems so rote, so perfunctory, like dressing babies exclusively in blue or pink.  The quality of the perfumes, though, has…

Amouage Dia Man, 2002

Perfumer unknown. Amouage Dia Man, poor dear, suffers from the Middle Child Syndrome. It sits in the long shadow of older Amouage brother, Gold Man, and can’t match his egregious, universally adored younger sibling Jubilation XXV. And what’s with the names? Dia? Day? Among such names as Gold, Honor, Epic, Opus, Beloved. You might as well have named Dia Bob. The smart money, though, will…

Amouage Honour Woman, 2011

  (image, Madama Butterfly by The Australian Opera) Honour Woman (2011.  Perfumers Violaine Collas and Alexandra Carlin.) is a jumbo floriental that somehow sits comfortably between the ‘proper’ white floral and the tropical floral.  Captures the best of both and utterly draws me in. I suspect the Cio-Cio San  schtick from Amouage marketing is smoke and mirrors on a large…

Amouage Epic Man, 2009

Perfumer Randa Hammami. Any meal with more than two courses isn’t about satisfying hunger, it’s about having an experience. I, an American, am fond of the three-course meal, experience-lite. I see the value in a multi-course meal, but I won’t go so far as to have a ten-course Titanic dinner, or a twenty one-course Versailles bacchanalia. To my mind, a…

Amouage Jubilation XXV (sort of) 2005

(Image of planned Museum of History of Islamic Science by omanobserver.com) Amouage Jubilation XXV, 2005. Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour. Amouage Gold Woman, 1983. Perfumer Guy Robert. The founding concept of Amouage is the hybrid that results from a meeting of cultures. Eastern materials and sensibilities, Western methods and composition. Omani direction, European perfumers. Combining cultures shifts power and transforms identity. It’s…

Amouage Ciel Man, 2003

Perfumer not cited. I once called out Gucci Envy for its use of a “sour” floral accord. I don’t think I was wrong about Envy, but Ciel pour Homme has made me reconsider the possibility of a viable sour perfume. It starts with a particularly acrid orange blossom note on top of incense and sandlewood, then moves in the most remarkable, smooth fashion to a spectacular…