Carthusia Gelsomini di Capri, 2009

gelsomini di capri

PerfumerLaura Tonnato

I expected this to be a ‘pretty’ fragrance.  Loads of floral elements.  A slight shift, I find it quite handsome.  The florals are vaguely high-pitched (jasmine, orange blossom, ylang-ylang) in the top-notes, but are all are all reigned-in by a leading geranium note.  Into the heart, there’s a good bit of a dirty, sweaty feel, but this point seems more like an inflection of the floral, and not stand-alone skanky.

Wonderfully, the sweetness fades in the heart, and a rather earthy, though not vulgar, floral tone  carries the day.  It’s a very outdoorsy floral feel, more like a garden than a bouquet, and the underbelly notes (indoles, a sweaty feel) grow without ever becoming overwhelming.  While not a chypre, Gelsomini becomes a down-to-earth scent, finding a well-worn feel similar in tone to the green/leather chypres.

related:  Floral Perfumes and the complications of abstraction,

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