Image from Philip-Lorca diCorcia.
Perfumer Bruno Fazzolari.
There is nothing new in Lampblack. Then again newness is overrated in perfumery. ‘Unconventionality’ is code—camouflage for a lack of nuance and uninventive composition. Niche perfumery is the boy, novelty is the wolf.
Better than novelty, Lampblack has a point of view. Consideration and creativity are more valuable than gimmickry, and let’s call Lampblack what it is. It is a perfume that uses known materials and compositional tools. But it manipulates otherwise recognizable facets of the materials to offer a new perspective. It is a thoughtful piece of work.
Bruno Fazzolari is a visual artist who has chosen perfumery as another medium for the investigation of ideas. His crossover to perfumery disproves the axiom that the medium is the message. It also points out that artistry and technical training are not the same thing, a point that vocational schools such as Givaudan and ISIPCA may or may not recognize.
There is considerable buzz around Fazzolari’s perfumes, Lampblack in particular. The problem with buzz it that there’s always the next new thing to capture it. Fuck the buzz and forget the flavor of the month, but try Lampblack if you have the chance. It is remarkable not for the hype, but its thoughtfulness and exploration of ideas.