digging (into) vintage: Boucheron by Boucheron, 1988

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Perfumers Jean-Pierre Béthouart and Francis Deleamont

Using exclusively synthetic aromachemicals to make a perfume has benefits and risks. Tweaking abstract chemical components can allow for an interesting use of qualities to make a statement (eg. Lauder’s Dazzling Silver or CdG’s Synthetic Series.) The trap is in trying to recreate notes otherwise provided by botanicals. Simulation is risky against a known quality, particularly botanical ones.

Boucheron attempts to make a floriental using flower-analogues and amber-analogues. These chemicals come off as both thin (no flesh to grab a hold of) and over-amped (the fluorescence is blinding.) If the goal of using synthetics is to produce a facsimile of known botanicals, missing the mark by a smidge doesn’t read as a near miss, it reads as horrifying. Boucheron smells just like mid-1980s make-up looked: un-nuanced two-dimensional drawing on a three-dimensional figure.

(image source scuolaesteticanapoli.com)


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