(image Ester Quek)
Perfumer Aurélien Guichard
This is a pink fruity chypre. It is fairly linear, not a common trait for a chypre, and while it is sweet, the sweetness lies in the floral notes and not the fruity notes. The rose is candied, but the fruit note, somewhere between melon and pear, is tart and sharp. AC is a nose-gestalt that reads as a light chypre, a floral/fruity and a spicy musk. The spiciness reads as a nicely placed pepper note reminiscent of the one in Caron’s Parfum Sacré. It lines up beautifully with the rose and the fruit. It cuts the rose’s sweetness, gives the fruit its green edge and lasts from start to finish.
The linearity tells me that Azzaro Couture might not so much be an ‘actual’ chypre (ie. with oakmoss) as an implied or suggested chypre. Bergamot and the pepperiness give a hint of that rough bitterness that I associate with chypre. The great thing about linearity here is that it stops the clock at an accord that reminds me of the heartnotes of Diorella—almost turned fruit balanced with a dark raspiness.
Couture doesn’t have great projection and it lasts better on the strip than on my skin. Although linear for the most part, Courure’s constituent elements (flower, fruit, musky spice) remain distinct, and even into the drydown there is no blurring of the lines.