Atelier Cologne Vanille Insensée, 2011

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(image onesmallseed)

Perfumer Ralf Schwieger

Non-cuddly vanilla.  More woody than spicy or dessert-like. Papery, actually.  Citrus notes at the top tell you that the vanilla won’t be either warm or sweet.  Ambery and smoky notes are accents rather than dominant notes, and let the vanilla keep its crisp edge.

The Atelier line purports to reinvent the cologne genre. Without much sillage, strength or endurance Vanille Insensee doesn’t step far out of the range of dynamics of the eau de cologne, but the composition certainly isn’t the classic citrus eau de cologne. It has similarities to l’Artisan Parfumeur Vanille Absolument, Serge Lutens Bois de Vanille and Parfums de Nicolai Vanille Intense. Atelier’s vanilla shares the coolness of the other vanillas, but is airier, less radiant and more matte. It’s the unlikely Goldilocks between the contemporary woody vanilla and the classic eau de cologne and a successful refashioning of the edc genre.

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