Hermès 24, Faubourg, 1995

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24, faubourg

Perfumer Maurice Roucel

I knew 24, Faubourg in the eau de toilette formulation and found it interesting but not lovely. It always felt as if it were teetering dangerously on a tightrope. I’ve recently tried the eau de parfum and had the Eureka! moment. From the orange blossom to the jasmine to the amber to the musks it is far more lavish, calmer, less scattered. In most instances an eau de toilette is either thinner or simply less concentrated than an eau de parfum. In this case it is more high strung. The eau de toilette is distinguished by a shrill brittleness that makes the perfume seem mis-calibrated. More finely tuned, the eau de parfum is simultaneously lush and potent.

Both formulations clearly live on the synthetic side of semi-synthetic and feel exceedingly complex in formula. In the eau de toilette, the ingredients pull strongly, but in slightly different directions and 24, Faubourg gives a hair-raising, jittery impression.

The eau de parfum steers its elements together and flows easily in one direction. With fewer parts tugging it this way and that, 24, Faubourg can be seen for the orange blossom-amber, olympian floriental that it is.

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